The Pleasure of Pumpkin

These vibrant orbs add mellow sweetness to your plate

By Laine Bergeson

Photo by photos by maki strunc photography
food styled by lara miklasevics
styled by david anger

As the crisp, autumnal air closes in on summer, the taste for the bright flavors of watermelon and raspberries wanes and a craving for the earthy foods of fall arrives. No food is more quintessentially “fall” than the beloved pumpkin. Both visually and gastronomically, pumpkins define this gold-misted season. The gleeful orange squash is most commonly associated with pumpkin pie—with its wholesome, nutmeg-tinged flavor and its position as sentimental favorite in the pantheon of classic fall dishes. With pumpkin pie alone, our palates would be content. But pumpkin is versatile, adaptable, and delicious in a variety of sweet and savory dishes, in addition to flaky pastries. ¶ “Pumpkin is easy to grow in Minnesota and is one of the most basic fall foods,” says Mary Scheu, school coordinator at Cooks of Crocus Hill on Grand Avenue in St. Paul. “Their flavors are so mellow, they mesh with almost anything you pair them with. You can do almost anything with pumpkin, baking or cooking. And pumpkin is really warm; you get a nice feeling from it.”

This fall, try combining pumpkin and other autumnal favorites, such as apples and leeks for a delectable Roasted Pumpkin and Apple Soup (see recipes). Ginger, garlic, and cinnamon season the soup and give it a classic, earthy taste. Another wonderful way to use pumpkin is to add it to roasted root vegetables (see recipes) and season with the complex yet comforting flavors of coriander and cumin.

Pumpkin also pairs well with southwestern flavors, says Anita Miller, assistant deli manager at the Wedge Community Co-op Deli in Minneapolis. This season, try pumpkin with poblano peppers, cumin, and mild green chiles. Miller notes that this combination brings out an authentic southwestern taste, without being overly spicy. Another flavorful, and distinctly seasonal, pumpkin pairing is wild rice. Make a truly local dish with diced pumpkin, cranberries, and wild rice native to Minnesota. Or combine them in a hearty soup (see recipes).

Photo by Maki Strunc Photography

Technically a fruit, pumpkin was originally cultivated by South Americans for its seeds, which can be toasted with a bit of salt and pepper to make a nutty-flavored and nutritious delicacy. Eat seeds as a snack, add them with apple wedges to hot cereal, or toss them over mixed greens.

Pumpkin desserts have also evolved from the Thanksgiving classic. Owner of the Minneapolis restaurants Café Brenda and Spoonriver, Brenda Langton suggests playing with pumpkins’ sweeter side to create cakes and cookies (see recipes). She even brings pumpkins to brunch by pairing their mellow sweetness with leeks and Gruyére cheese in a flaky pastry (see recipes).

However you use pumpkin this fall, it will add a helping of autumnal flavor to your plate. “Be daring with pumpkin,” suggests the Wedge’s Miller. She uses it in sweet and savory dishes such as her vegetable side dish recipe, Sicilian Sweet and Sour Pumpkin (see recipes). “Pumpkin is good for you, and it feels good, like you are being nourished,” she says. “You come away from eating pumpkin feeling healthy and satisfied.”

Laine Bergeson is a Minneapolis freelance writer.

For pumpkin recipes, see our October 2007 Savvy Host Recipes. More information on featured products and suppliers, please reference our Buyer's Guide.

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