First Tastes of Spring

Fresh greens and crisp veggies are back, and as beautiful as ever

First Tastes of Spring
Photo by Maki Strunc Photography
 
It’s spring. The birds are chirping, the snow is melting, and, most pertinent to our palate, fresh flavors are back on the table. “We’re moving out of the heavy stews and the polentas, and getting into the first tender shoots of watercress and asparagus,” says Bret Bannon, chef, restaurant consultant, and instructor at Cooks of Crocus Hill. “When spring rolls around, I start thinking about fresh, farmer’s market ingredients.”

Bannon, who also owns Bret’s Table, which offers culinary classes and tours, says seasonal cooking is the cornerstone of his philosophy in the kitchen. “For me, season changes signal what I’m going to bring to the table,” he says.

Taking cues from nature is only one aspect of seasonal cooking, which also emphasizes using local and regional ingredients. A simple stroll through the local farmer’s market yields an array of beautiful, bright colors that seem like a distant memory in the wake of winter. “Our bodies know what we need,” Bannon says, “which is freshness and as little cooking as possible.” Asparagus, fava beans, English pea shoots, fiddlehead ferns, ramps, and, of course, tender spring greens are but a few of the season’s bounty. Morels, spring lamb, and flavorful beets also add local life to any spread.

Photo by Maki Strunc Photography

Here’s the best news for home cooks: fresh, springtime cooking is easy. Spring veggies stand on their own in terms of flavor, and they don’t take much processing to prepare. No need to concoct complex dishes that require hours to cook, no more heavy creams and squashes. “It’s all about what’s in season,” Bannon says. “Nothing overly fancy or fussy. It’s about keeping it simple and celebrating the ingredients, and you can’t go wrong.”

To design a dinner party that celebrates spring, create an environment that celebrates the ingredients. “Throughout the winter, everyone’s shoulders are at their ears, and they’re hunkered over,” Bannon says. “Spring is the time to take off the layers and get regenerated, and a spring dinner party is the perfect jump start to the season.” When shopping for fresh spring veggies, trust yourself and what your bodily intuition says is fresh and good.

To start the festivities in style, Bannon suggests offering your guests a brilliant green amuse bouche: his signature Tarragon Pea Shooters (see recipes). A unique, seasonal take on pea soup, the shooter combines vodka with the fresh flavors of spring, immediately getting your guests’ taste buds in the mood for fresh, healthy flavors.

Follow the shooter with a crisp, sparkling wine, and let the meal begin. Instead of a traditional salad, try something new. Bannon’s beet salad (see recipes) is quick and easy to prepare, which lets you spend more time with guests and less time in the kitchen. Add his vinaigrette (see recipes) for a guaranteed hit. Though produce is the centerpiece of any spring celebration, lamb provides the perfect protein for the occasion.

Whatever you do, be sure to let those shoulders drop.

“Think quick, think simple, and cater to people’s natural inclinations,” Bannon says. “Spring is about conveying new life, and I can’t think of a better way to do that than by sharing fresh food with good friends.”

Colby Johnson is the Managing Editor of Midwest Home.

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