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FeedJP’s American Bistro Closed. Tragic.
I’m heartbroken: JP’s American Bistro closed Sunday night. JP’s has long been one of my all-time favorite Minneapolis restaurants. It was my husband’s and my go-to place when we wanted to celebrate but didn’t want a hulaballoo. It was my favorite bar to meet friends at during happy hour. In fact, we had a piece scheduled for the November issue of the magazine that included this passage:
“Every discussion I’ve had about restaurants in the last six months seems to lead folks to bring up one point: ‘You know what’s really good, but no one talks about? JP’s.’ It’s true: JP American Bistro, the LynLake restaurant by J. P. Samuelson, a one time saucier at Bouley in New York City, is the best, least-buzzed about restaurant in town. It’s great because Samuelson has a particular mastery over balancing points of sour, salty, and sweet in every dish, and manages to embellish local products with exotic ingredients—like oak smoked paprika or pickled lemon rind—in a way that is almost undetectable to the untrained. You eat his food and you just think: This is something simple that is very good and I don’t know why. And it’s only after quizzing Samuelson that learn the nuances he has brought to the table….”
Looks like all that not-talking about and not-buzzing seems to have added up. Worse, Samuelson isn’t just a great talent: He’s a really nice guy.
What happened? I called him up to find out. “It’s really sad,” he told me. “The construction [endless, at Lake and Lyndale] finally got to us. With the economy, the construction, Minneapolis property taxes—after our first year, because the property had been redone, our taxes went up by three-thousand dollars a month. Nobody had budgeted for that. The construction was supposed to happen in one year, but they came back and started on Lake Street, and at some point you have to cut your losses.”
It’s so sad!
“Yeah, it is,” J.P. told me. “Numerous people came by, like Mike Ryan from ‘Bewiched. He used to work here, and Mike said: ‘This doesn’t bode well for independent restaurants.’ I don’t want to be a pessimist, but I have to agree. I don’t think we’ll be the last one [closing]. With the economy the way it is, even if they approve a bailout, I think the next six months are going to be brutal, and given the life-spans of most restaurants, it’s hard to see everyone making it. This holiday season coming up; I don’t wish it on anyone. It’s unfortunate, but fine dining is just one of those things people can eliminate from their budgets.”
Well, that’s it. I’m sort of stunned. Heartbroken, stunned, afraid. If you loved J.P.’s food as much as I did, you can hire him for private events or attend his cooking classes; he’s going to keep his website up so people can contact him through that.
“Pass on my condolences to Cheryl,” I told J.P.
“I will. It is kind of like a death in the family,” J.P. told me.
Yes, it is. It’s a sad, sad day in Minneapolis.
Posted on Thursday, October 2, 2008 in Permalink
Comments may be edited for length, clarity, or appropriateness.
Reader Comments:
BOO. I say, BOO!
Sad. JP's was a nice place, alright. Great food, underrated service. It wasn't a scene, just honest and good food. The overall atmosphere was a little sleepy, but in a good way.
My non-food lasting memory of JP's will be having to schlep downstairs to use the can (rivals Solera for this and something I always loathe) and dealing with the jackass parking system in back.
Great. All the businesses on in Lyn-Lake suffer through what might be the slowest and most choking construction that could have been conjured up and then they hit them with an increase in PROPERTY tax? What good is having the property if no one can get there? This is freakin' horrible. It's sad to think that a talent like that couldn't survive in the current landscape. Next thing you know it will be all Olive Gardens and Cheesecake Factories. I hope J.P. lands somewhere else, I'd love to eat his food.
JP's was a great place. I would rather have one honest JP's American Bistro than a dozen hotspots like Cosmos or Chambers. I am sad to see it go.
Here's my dilemma as a suburbanite and parent: There are too many good restaurants for me to be able to support them all. (I know...such problems!)
I am struck with the feeling that I should have gone to JPs more, but that would just mean that I went to Alma or Craftsman or 112 Eatery less.
I often hear people question whether the Twin Citites can support a vibrant dining scene. I think we obviously can. The true question that needs to be addressed is how big that vibrant dining scene should be.
Perhaps we suffer from too much of a good thing?
http://relentlessolive.wordpress.com/
My husband and I were HUGE fans of JP and I can say we NEVER had a bad meal in the 5 1/2 years we ate there (how many restaurants can you say that about!). I'm so thankful we made the trip last Thursday for what was our last chance to dine on his to die for pork ragu pasta and those heavenly mashed potatoes. We were anxiously awaiting the fall menu and begging for our favorite - duck to be placed back on the menu - all for naught. JP knew how to cook and fit our style of great food without the snobbery. He had something special and a great staff too. It's a sad sad day!!
My husband and I feel the exact same way. What a stunner. Auriga's was always our favorite go to with friends or anytime we didn't want a hassle. After that closed (during which time we had some kids) we relied on JP's to fill the void. Truly sad. I loved the duck confit.
SO sad, I got to go to JP American Bistro for the first time on Sept 20th. Outstanding!!!! I was really looking forward to going back, and bringing family from out of town. JP, please come back soon. We miss your cooking already
i worked there. i loved to be there. jp is an extrordinary person who is knowledgeable about food, kind, confident, yet not arrogant or cocky. ulike the owners of most of the restaurants i have worked in for the past 22 years, he showed up to work in his own space every night. his food is good, and his heart is good. you don't see that too often. i would also like to say how much i appreciate the people that came to dinner there on a regular basis, i have become friends with them and appreciate them both as people and guests. i will miss my co-workers, and i will miss my friends.