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December 9, 2008

Brother, Won’t You Buy A Drink for Iceland?

When a bottle of Icelandic Reyka Vodka showed up on my desk a few months ago, I read the press release that accompanied it with mild hostility: “You’ve already given your car, home, and office an eco-friendly makeover,” it declared, forcing me to respond: Actually, vodka, now that you bring it up, I haven’t. My car is old and broken, and my office is exactly how it was the day I showed up; people who give things eco-friendly makeovers are people who have way more time and money than I do.

But the press release ignored me, continuing: “Made in Iceland, Reyka Vodka uses geothermal energy to power their facilities—a clean and sustainable energy source. It’s one more step in the right direction.”

Yeah, I told... Read more »

Posted on Tuesday, December 9, 2008 in Dear Dara | Permalink | Comments (3)


December 1, 2008

Landon “Colonel Mustard” Schoenfeld Is Back!

It kind of bugs me that Landon Schoenfeld is known to most food-people as Colonel Mustard. For those of you who were out of town in 2007, he’s known as Colonel Mustard because of an infamous incident at the Bulldog NE, in which Schoenfeld sprayed mustard at a bartender who had allegedly requested a salad with dressing on the side.

Why does it bug me? Because it seems so unfair: Young Landon, who was 25 at the time, was working 20 hour days for months on end and sleeping in the service closet of the restaurant in an effort to make the bar a name—which he did—and he was crucified for the most harmless high jinks I can imagine. When I worked in restaurant kitchens, smearing coworkers with chocolate mousse, spraying them with water, or splashing hot sauce into... Read more »

Posted on Monday, December 1, 2008 in Dear Dara | Permalink | Comments (2)


November 18, 2008

JP is Back!

After J.P.’s American Bistro closed I (along every other food-interested party in town) was concerned that the next step would be the announcement that chef J.P. Samuelson would be leaving town. After all, with his Bouley background, he could cook anywhere in the world.

Well, here’s some happy news: Doug Anderson from Nick and Eddie called me today to let me know that J.P. has accepted a position as sous chef (second chef) at the Loring Park restaurant.

“He started working Saturday night,” Anderson told me. “He’s such a nice guy, it’s amazing to see two nice guys in the kitchen. There’s really not much more to say to it than that. Steve [Vranian, the chef at Nick and Eddie] is so happy, he’s been run ragged lately and... Read more »

Posted on Tuesday, November 18, 2008 in Dear Dara | Permalink | Comments (11)


November 11, 2008

Ungodly Lazy Recipe of the Week

The other day, I got a chicken into the oven when I glanced up and realized I had exactly three minutes to be walking out the door to an appointment. I had wanted to make brown rice in my usual way (sautéing some garlic in butter before adding the rice to the pot), but there wasn’t any time. So I dumped about a tablespoon of the Golden Fig’s Sel de Cuisine in there with a cup and a half of short-grain brown rice and three cups of water and chucked the cold pot in the oven. Many hours later, when I pulled the rice out, I had extremely low expectations. But, by golly, if that rice didn’t taste like a pilaf I had slaved over: Harmonious, complexly herbal, and, to my great surprise, perfectly seasoned. If I had gotten that in a restaurant, I would have figured... Read more »

Posted on Tuesday, November 11, 2008 in Dear Dara | Permalink | Comments (3)


October 28, 2008

Halloween Insider: Scott Seekins Look-Alikes & Circuses!

Here’s some good news for hard times: Nick and Eddie, the Loring Park restaurant, is now hosting after-dinner circuses. Seriously. Doug Anderson, Nick and Eddie’s impresario, tells me that the restaurant has installed equipment to allow aerial work.

“Aerial work?” I gasped.

“There’s a bar across the width of the restaurant that’s removable, and using a big metal ring and fabric, the girls can hang off and do aerial acts.”

The girls in question are the ones from Le Cirque Rouge, the burlesque and cabaret troupe, who will be performing every other Friday night starting at 10 p.m. or so, and going till 1:30 a.m. or thereabouts. The next performance is scheduled for this very Friday, Halloween night. The circus will be... Read more »

Posted on Tuesday, October 28, 2008 in Dear Dara | Permalink | Comments (1)


October 24, 2008

Sneak Peek: moto-i

I didn’t see this one coming. The first micro-sake-brewery restaurant in the whole entire country has opened on the corner of Lake Street and Lyndale Avenue in south Minneapolis. Really. The country’s first. Or so say the publicists behind moto-i. And since I don’t know differently, I pass it on to you.

The place is the brainchild of Herkimer owner and founder Blake Richardson, and it opened Monday night. I went last night and it was sort of at the next level of a soft opening. Brown paper was still taped to all the windows, staff and customers hidden inside, as if illegally on site. The place doesn’t have all its art up on the walls yet—I’m told sumo-wrestler photos are forthcoming—but even bare-walled, it’s pretty cute. Wooden... Read more »

Posted on Friday, October 24, 2008 in Dear Dara | Permalink | Comments (2)


October 17, 2008

Sneak Peek: La Belle Crepe

When I saw what looked like an honest-to-god French creperie being built on the ground floor of the Medical Arts Building on Nicollet Mall in downtown Minneapolis, I was beside myself with excitement. In a pre-opening interview with the Strib, owner Alain Lesse said, “Everyday for the past few weeks, we've had 80 to 100 people poke their head in and ask, ‘When are you opening?’”

I think I was at least six of those people.

So, I ventured in today for lunch. I know they’ve only been open for two weeks, but it was…not so hot.

The décor is not the problem. It actually looks quite French, with a big brass chandelier and granite counters in a teeny tiny chocolate-and-buff room. I kind of felt like I was in Paris, if off... Read more »

Posted on Friday, October 17, 2008 in Dear Dara | Permalink | Comments (2)


October 9, 2008

Happy Sweet Chicago Birthday

Jennifer W. writes: “I am taking my husband to Chicago for his birthday later this month and am looking for somewhere special to take him to dinner. He is a former pastry chef, so somewhere with a fabulous dessert menu would be great. Do you have any suggestions? I know you know the great places in Minnesota to dine; do you know any in Chicago? Thanks!”

The first place that leaps to mind is Alinea, the ground-breaking Chicago restaurant of Grant Achatz. It leaps to mind because I’m anxiously awaiting receipt of Achatz’ new cookbook, “Alinea”; I paid $50 on the restaurant website so I could get a signed copy, but I now see my copy hasn’t yet arrived and the book is currently available on Amazon for $30. (Ah, now you know the heartbreak... Read more »

Posted on Thursday, October 9, 2008 in Dear Dara | Permalink | Comments (8)


October 6, 2008

Farm in the Market Closes

Thought the Twin Cities food scene had taken a major step backwards with JP’s closing? Brother, you ain’t seen nothing yet. Farm in the Market, the year-round meat-and-dairy farmer’s market that Laurie Callister, the chicken lady, ran in the Midtown Global Market, has also shut its doors for good.

What’s the next step after heartbroken? Bereft? I’m bereft.

Farmer’s Market has been one of the principal joys to living in Minnesota these last few years. I luxuriated in getting restaurant-quality pork from her from Pastures A’Plenty, and the experience of getting fresh, never-frozen chickens from Callister’s own farm changed my life. Also, my son has eaten Farm in the Market chicken meatballs just about every day of his life... Read more »

Posted on Monday, October 6, 2008 in Dear Dara | Permalink | Comments (3)


October 2, 2008

JP’s American Bistro Closed. Tragic.

I’m heartbroken: JP’s American Bistro closed Sunday night. JP’s has long been one of my all-time favorite Minneapolis restaurants. It was my husband’s and my go-to place when we wanted to celebrate but didn’t want a hulaballoo. It was my favorite bar to meet friends at during happy hour. In fact, we had a piece scheduled for the November issue of the magazine that included this passage:

“Every discussion I’ve had about restaurants in the last six months seems to lead folks to bring up one point: ‘You know what’s really good, but no one talks about? JP’s.’ It’s true: JP American Bistro, the LynLake restaurant by J. P. Samuelson, a one time saucier at Bouley in New York City, is the best, least-buzzed about... Read more »

Posted on Thursday, October 2, 2008 in Dear Dara | Permalink | Comments (8)


About This Blog

Dear Dara is the place where Minnesota Monthly readers can interact with our dining critic and senior editor Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl. What makes her so special? She’s been reviewing restaurants and covering food and wine in the Twin Cities since 1995, most notably asCity Pages’ restaurant critic, but also for Gourmet, USA Today, Wine & Spirits, Bon Appetit, and Saveur. She’s been included in five editions of the Best Food Writing anthologies, and been nominated for seven James Beard Awards – though, to tell you the truth, most of the time the medals from her four wins are buried under a pile of chocolate wrappers at the back of her desk. This blog will be where she’ll answer your questions, (though probably not all of them), dish on her latest discoveries, reflect on breaking news, and generally bring the plate to the page.

Send your dining questions to Dara! Email her at dmgrumdahl@minnesotamonthly.com.
 

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