Edit ModuleShow Tags

DeRushaEats: At Sea Change With A Rising Star Chef


Published:

I'm not surprised that Chef Jamie Malone from Sea Change was named a semifinalist in the James Beard Awards category for "Rising Star Chef."

She and her team were superstars when we ate at the raw bar two weeks ago.

For a couple of months, my oldest son Seth (7) had been asking to go with my wife and me when we go out to eat. We typically go out either Friday or Saturday night, and our kids get a babysitter. Seth wanted to be with us.

He loves fish and shrimp and seafood, so he asked to go to a seafood place. We made our reservation for the raw bar at Sea Change at 5 p.m. on a Saturday.

To my surprise, there were a fair number of families eating there, well-dressed young boys and girls eating dinner before a trip to the Guthrie, perhaps.

Raw bar chef Holly Carson was amazing, taking us on a tour of the menu, explaining things to Seth. She proved, once again, that sitting at a bar in a restaurant is the most fun way to eat!

He tried everything—the incredible langostines with hot olive oil, chiles, and rosemary, the extremely popular shrimp cocktail elevated so brilliantly with a little preserved lemon and habenero cocktail sauce. He loved the tuna poke with a bright burst of fresh nori (seaweed)—which reminded him of a sushi roll taken apart.
 

  


Chef Malone brought out a breathtaking dish that made Seth beam with joy: a bowl filled with ginger cotton candy, a cup of lobster bisque that was out-of-this-world, and then a cheddar grits dish topped with popcorn dust, and popcorn kernels. Absolutely delicious.
 


And guess what: the non-fish dishes at Sea Change also blew me away. The duck was perfect— served with a rich, dark roux and andouille rillettes. It seems sacrilegious to order a meat dish at Sea Change, but I hereby give you dispensation. Do it.

For dessert: no surprise that the seven-year-old loved the chocolate cremeux, with brownie, and more chocolate, and a little more chocolate. I've written about Niki Francioli's desserts before; I really think they're in the top tier in the city. They are fantastic.

The joy of sitting at the raw bar is the chance to interact with Chef Carson and Chef Malone. It was an unforgettable experience for us, and for our son. And it goes to show that some of the best chefs in the Twin Cities are also some of the nicest people.
 

family picture


Sea Change Restaurant & Bar
806 S. 2nd St., Mpls.
612-225-6499
seachangempls.com

Edit ModuleShow Tags

Related Articles

Kickstarter Restaurants and Food Businesses

Moveable Feast: MnMo editor Rachel Hutton and MPR Classical's John Birge discuss member supported food enterprises

Three Things to Eat This Week: May 2-8

Food critic Joy Summers shares the best in Twin Cities dining this week, including a new patio, a dish from Corner Table enjoyed by a special guest, and a local spirit

Mini Sopes with Carne Asada, Avocado and Queso Fresco Recipe

Get ready for Cinco de Mayo—sliced avocados make for a rich and tasty topping to mini sopes filled with sautéed carne asada, black beans and queso fresco.
Edit ModuleShow Tags

About This Blog

TC Taste answers your restaurant and dining questions, dishes on latest discoveries, reflects on breaking news, and generally brings the plate to the page with a skilled crew of experts: Learn more about the TC Taste bloggers.

Have a food-related question? Email rhutton@mnmo.com

Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags

Recent TC Taste Posts

Kickstarter Restaurants and Food Businesses

Moveable Feast: MnMo editor Rachel Hutton and MPR Classical's John Birge discuss member supported food enterprises

Three Things to Eat This Week: May 2-8

Food critic Joy Summers shares the best in Twin Cities dining this week, including a new patio, a dish from Corner Table enjoyed by a special guest, and a local spirit

Mini Sopes with Carne Asada, Avocado and Queso Fresco Recipe

Get ready for Cinco de Mayo—sliced avocados make for a rich and tasty topping to mini sopes filled with sautéed carne asada, black beans and queso fresco.

2016 James Beard Award Finalists Lenny Russo and Paul Berglund

Moveable Feast: MnMo editor Rachel Hutton and MPR Classical's John Birge talk about the Minnesota finalists for Best Chef Midwest category

The Not-So-New Trend of No Reservations

Is it worth waiting to dine at some of the hottest and newest spots in town?
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags