Envision in Review: Sarah Furnaé, Form over Function, Emily Trevor
Looks by Sarah Furnaé, Form over Function, Emily Trevor
On Friday, April 21, Ignite Models Inc. held its long-running Envision runway show at Machine Shop in Minneapolis as part of Fashion Week MN. The show featured new spring collections by ten Twin Cities designers. Due to the breadth of the show, this review is written in three parts, in order from beginning to end. Read Part 1 here (Kindred Folk, Reinier Vigoa, Kyra Deva, and Cliché) and Part 2 (George Moskal, Idle Child, and ACG). All images by Jay Larson
The last time we saw a collection of new designs by Sarah Furnaé was the fall 2015 edition of Envision, where the Minneapolis designer (a product designer for heritage bagmaker J.W. Hulme Co. by day) showed a beautiful, slightly unusual line of sculptural gowns, dresses, and separates. Fortunately, the talented designer has returned—and it was worth the wait. Her spring 2017 collection was fully realized and had a strong point of view, from the original peony and poppy prints she created, to the extremely polished craftsmanship of the pieces, to the handmade accessories. Standout pieces were a bright and bold floral suit (paired with a contrasting print top), a pair of groovy floral bell bottoms, and a stunning strapless gown in a unique floral eyelet fabric covered in floral appliques. The designer paired her own floral headbands (which are also available for purchase) with the looks along with fur-trimmed handbags created by Holly Forrey (a fellow product designer for J.W. Hulme) that was equal parts chic, luxe, and kitschy—much like Furnaé's collection itself. Here's hoping we'll be seeing more from this talented designer again soon.
Form over Function
In her latest collection, Form over Function designer Lauren Kacher continued to evolve her punk-inspired aesthetic with an increasing polish and high-fashion. The collection was inspired by recent trips to Iceland and London, where she sourced the fabrics for the collection, as well as artwork by Bangkok-based conceptual photographer, Tanapol Kaewpring. Kacher has always had a strong point of view, and her newest line—the lone menswear collection at this spring's Envision—featured a blend of Asian influences, with mandarin-style collars, wide sashes, and woven buttons, along with elements borrowed from cyber-gothic-punk counterculture, such as punk bondage pants. While such elements could easily move into the realm of costume in the hands of a lesser designer, Kacher's blending of the various styles gave the looks a fashion-forward, streetwise look, and her fabric choices, such as leather and velvet, brought a luxe quality to the pieces. She also incorporated a variety of interesting textures and patterns (no doubt inspired by Iceland's volcanic terrain), ensuring the black-and-white collection would be anything but basic.
Emily Trevor first hit the Twin Cities catwalks in the fall of 2013, and her collections have become more dazzling, intricate, and original every year since. Her spring 2017 line the most inspired, accomplished, and ambitious collection the designer has presented to date. The inspiration behind the collection was a trip to Tokyo, the Chinese city of Suzhou, and Seoul, and her interpretation of all the "wacky and weird" things she saw, including the flurries of scooters in China. Because she was so inspired, she ended up closing the show with an astounding 11 looks (versus the usual seven).
The collection centered around the unconventional pairing of sporty and sophisticated elements with a global approach, best exemplified in a look composed of a sequined hoodie casually worn over a ruffled ball gown skirt, and oversized visors (which she sourced in China and then embellished) paired with silk shantung and sequined dresses. Working in a bold palette of blue, green, red, and silver, the designer paired metallics, sequins, tweed, faux fur, clear PVC, and stripes, festooning the looks with hand-sequined appliques, bows, ruffles, ribbons, and even googly eyes—sometimes all in the same look. Yet the onslaught of what the designer has dubbed "intentionally tacky" came together perfectly, thanks in large part to her impeccable construction and laser-sharp vision. With a lesser designer, the collection would have needed a substantial edit, but not Trevor—she knows exactly what she's doing.
And because they deserve their own spotlight, here are all the gloves Trevor created:
Where to Buy:
Sarah Furnaé: Available by request at email@example.com
Form over Function: Available by request at formoverfunctiondesign.com
Emily Trevor: Available Saturday, April 29 from 5-8 p.m. at Showroom (615 W. Lake St., Minneapolis, 612-345-7391) and by request @ ertrevor.com
Holly Forrey (handbags): Available by request at firstname.lastname@example.org, with Etsy site coming soon.